Copyright © 2013 by Ralph F. Couey
The
Weinstrasse
Jefferson
City, MO – St. Charles, MO140 miles, mainly US 50, Routes 100 and 94
When
the words “Missouri Wine Country” are spoken, most people react with a blank
stare, and if they’re from Napa, California, outright derision. But as John Adams once remarked, “Facts are
stubborn things.” And the facts are
these.
German
settlers arrived in the area around 1801.
The soil was rich, but the abundant hills in the area made agriculture
difficult, but proved to ideal for viticulture.
The first commercial grapes were grown prior to 1850. Napa got its start about 10 years later. Up till Prohibition, Missouri was actually
the second largest wine producer in the United States. When the 21st Amendment was
ratified, the vintner industry throughout the U.S. was pretty much
destroyed. It wasn’t until the 1960s
that the industry began to rebuild itself.
The
Federal Government, recognizing the rebirth and vibrancy of American vintners,
in 1983 began to establish American Viticultural Areas. The first one was in Missouri, not
California.
Start
this trek in Missouri’s capital city, Jefferson City, the only American capitol
city not on an interstate highway. Head
east on US 50 for just under 15 miles to the town of Loose Creek. There you take a left on County Route A.
The next 6.5 miles is sheer motorcycle joy. Route A has several deeply-dished right-angle turns, most of which have excellent visibility all the way through. Hazards here include critters and farm vehicles. Route A ends as you coast down a steep hill into Bonnots Mill. It’s a quiet town, somewhat quaint, lying along the Osage River, which parallels the Missouri River just before joining the Big Muddy just east of town. If you want a meal (and it’s after 3:00 p.m.) Johnny Mac’s Bar and Grill fills the bill. Known for their barbecue, the rest of the menu, while unremarkable, is all good, tasty stuff. If you just need a cool drink, there’s a grocery store with a large and inviting veranda owned by some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet.
Climb
the steep hill out of Bonnots Mill and turn left on County Route C. This road is just as squiggly as Route A, but
unfortunately the visibility is more restricted through those turns. And the road is on a ridge with no shoulders
and steep drop-offs on either side, so close attention to navigation is highly
recommended. 8 miles along, you pass
through a small 30-souls town called Frankenstein. Despite its prepossessing name, the town is
not named after Bram Stoker’s monster, but rather a wealthy German, Gottfried
Franken, who donated land to build a church.
There is still a rather large Catholic parish here.
Three
miles further on, you leave Route C at Luystown and pick up State Route 100
with a left turn. As you pull away from
the river, the steep hills give way to rolling countryside, dotted with farms
and the occasional abandoned mansion.
After 9 miles, the hills go away and you’re on dead flat land alongside
the Missouri River. Route 100 also goes
straight here, with only a could hard curves to deal with. The urge to open ‘er up here is nigh
irresistible, but know that the local constabulary takes a dim view of
motorcyclists who speed. You pass
through several small towns – Chamois (pronounced Sha-moy), Morrison, and
Gasconade before the road starts to climb again, weaving gently between
picturesque hills and farms. Fencelines
are right along the road, so you will find yourself being eyed by various
species of four-legged beasts as you roar by.
Shortly,
you’ll enter the town of Hermann.
The
downtown area has a number of restaurants and shops that may interest you, but
the big draw are the wineries. There are
several nearby, Hermannhof, Oak Glen, and Adam Puchta, but my favorite is Stone
Hill. It sits perched on nearly the
highest point in town, and is a great place to break from the road. Here, you can take a winery tour, sample the
local wines, eat a good meal, and relax under the shade of a tree while you
drink and take in the view.
In
town, there are 23 restaurants (if you count Hardee’s and Subway) of mainly
German cuisine. My personal favorite is
Montague’s Barbecue, and not just because it rhymes. The food is good, the service great, and they
love motorcyclists. If you are in town
in March, you need to attend the Wurst Fest.
This is a sausage competition, and you get to wind your way through two
large buildings and sample dozens of different kind of sausages, and buy the
ones you like. They used to have an
Oktoberfest, but it was canceled, or at least de-emphasized after several ugly
incidents involving drunk visitors and the local gendarmes.
You
leave Hermann by crossing the Missouri River on State Route 19 over a modern
concrete and steel reinforced bridge which replaced the ancient narrow bridge
that flexed mightily whenever the Big Rigs came across. Two miles along, turn right onto State Route
94.
Missouri
94 is known as The Weinstrasse, or the Wine Road. It’s here that you enter the designated
AVA. The road winds along the banks of
the Missouri while many wineries perch on the bluffs above. Marthasville, Dutzow, Augusta, and Matson
mark this route. It’s a pretty ride, and
the many opportunities to stop along the way make it an entertaining one as
well.
About
70 miles along this road, you’ll arrive in St. Charles. Route 94 continues on to the Illinois line,
but this makes a good stopping point.
St.
Charles was founded in 1765, making it the oldest settlement west of the
Mississippi. It was initially a stop for
the fur trade, but grew in economic importance, due to its proximity to the
River. Lewis and Clark stopped here in
1804, calling it “the last civilized stop.”
As the area was shifted between Spain and France, it was known
alternately as San Carlos and Saint Charles.
When Missouri became a state in 1821, St. Charles was its first capital
city, a distinction it held until 1826 when the permanent capital was built in
Jefferson City.
Today,
the history is preserved in a district that stretches for 10 blocks (about
three-quarters miles) along Main Street.
It’s filled with restaurants, shops, museums, all well worth a visit.
Twisties,
hills, wine, and history. Not a bad way
to spend a day. Or an entire weekend.
No comments:
Post a Comment